Carla Yeung winner of the Collections Section and Best Use of Yarn Award.In the sleepy town of Gore this weekend the Hokonui Design Awards celebrated it's Coming of Age by turning 21, and I was fortunate enough to be invited. I couldn’t wait to get there, which was evident when I opened my suitcase at the other end, because what I ‘remember’ packing had vanished. Still a weekend of small town glamour lay ahead and I was ready to wrap myself up in it.
The Hokonui Design awards in Gore is NZ’s oldest fashion competition and, as Francis Hopper from World reiterated throughout the weekend, a competition that should be entered by all aspiring amateur fashion designers. Why you may ask? Well, where else as an amateur will you be able to show your wears to some of NZ’s fashion elite such as head judge Francis Hooper, in a public environment that is relaxed, non threatening and super supportive? The $24,000 prize pool proved that, with the overall winner taking home a prize package of $10,000. Fabulous, just like convener Heather Paterson, who organised an event that flew like a well-oiled machine down the runway. And this weekend was all about runaway. It started by landing on 2 before reaching our destination. Thank goodness the weather was superb with no wind, because I’m not synonymous with small planes and turbulence.
To get to Gore from Wellington we had to catch two Planes. I say we, because husband came with; he proved to be my best accessory according to the ladies down south, which did make me laugh because I would have said it was my Prada Sunnies, still each to their own. So, with my hot accessory and no airsickness, the 2 flights were painless. They also provided picture perfect views, which stimulated my eye for beauty and provoked this thought: I hope to see some simplicity and elegance in the designs this weekend. Many times in the past I have watched fashion awards where young designers send garments down the runway with everything over done, and occasionally they win something for it. I hoped, with all the South Island beauty influencing the local designers, there would be some willing to draw on the less is more philosophy. As it turned out there were some design delights waiting.
Our evening began with a quiet red carpet event, which unfortunately showed signs of the big ‘R’. Heather did confirm they had been hit a little but didn’t seem fazed. You get the feeling nothing was going to knock this optimist. The show was going to bigger and better than last year, after all it was their 21st. Actually, on reflection, I’m not sure why I even bothered asking her about the economic effects. The people of Gore made a roaring trade on Whiskey during the prohibition for goodness sake. They don’t conform to restrictions. They rise above and excel. Take Jim Geddes, Gore’s district curator, for example. He organised the rebuilding of the local museum and has taken it such a level they are being gifted art fit for the Tate before some of NZ’s bigger museums.
I quite enjoyed the quiet start. It gave me a chance to talk to all of the judges in the room. I wanted to get their thoughts on the standard of designs they’d seen, hoping they’d say something that would keep my already high enthusiasm intact. Francis’ exact words were “the standard was outstanding this year”. Fantastic, that’s exactly what I wanted to hear from someone who was making his 3rd appearance at the awards. Now armed with the excitement of any first timer, I was really looking forward to the show. Not only were the designs going to be good, I’d also seen the size of the runway earlier in the day so I had a feeling we would be in for a treat.
Judging this year with Francis Hooper was Rex Turnbull, Charmaine Reverley, Theresa Brady and Mike Hamel. A very qualified and talented bunch of creatives, that I was keen to measure myself against. This is not to imply that I am in anyway going to do so by becoming a designer. That would require being able to sew for a start. No, I wanted to see if my eye for fashion was on the same level as these elite 5. I decided to write down my top 3 from each section, and pick the winner. After watching some stunning dancing that opened the show and appreciating the excellent lighting that seemed to flatter the clothes along with the dancers skin (flawless!), out came section 1 designs, Howl to the Moon Streetwear, along with my scrutiny. Straight away I could see these students were well on trend as big-shouldered garments, jodhpurs and the slashed effect flowed down the runway. But most of this I had seen before. I wanted to see something different, interesting and as I said earlier, simple. Then out it came, number 36 by Elise Barnes, which not only won the streetwear award but also went on to take out the Westpac Younger of the Year award. So began my winner’s streak. Elise’s garment is bang on trend for what’s about to come this summer: tie-dyed with contrasting colours.
Following street wear was by far my favourite section of the evening, Southern Institute of Technology Knitted Award. I never thought so much could be created by knitting or crocheting? I felt all the designers had worked really hard on their creations, but it was the stand out piece by Ruth Bucknell that caught my eye. It looked so elegant coming down the runway with all of the long hours visible in the layers of soft white yarn. Another personal pick to win, which not only took out this section but the Charles Parson Best Use of Fabric Award as well.
Next up Nu Dax Denim Award. With only a few entries, I found this section a little boring. Following after the knitwear section may have influenced this, but I felt all the designers played it quite safe. There were 2 designers’ outfits outside of the winner that I do have to mention though. Tara Dockerty-Wanhalla’s detailed demin corset, which was very couture and Andre Tamblyn-Johnstons petal dress, which was fun and quirky. Both were editorial and would be great to style. But it was Gregory Wiseman-Spence’s long gown, with a fish tail that proved the best. The neck detail added a point of difference to the clean, fitted lines of the dress.
The 4 sections following were; Hokonui Heritage Kiwiana Award won by Margaret Lewis with the old blankets clearly the Kiwiana part of the design (I might send her some of mine because this dress looked super warm); Westpac Wool Award won by Roberta Lee David’s with what I have named her trumpet dress; VnC Avant Garde Award, unfortunately this section was another let down for me. Still this was a first time section, so I’m sure it’ll get better. The award went to Marie Kelly, with a menswear design that did have the WOW factor even if it was dark in black and grey tones; Heartland Hotel Croydon Nightlife Award went to Charmaine Cowlishaw with her long black evening gown I’d love to see in my wardrobe.
The last 2 sections I have separated from the previous because the winning garments not only won their sections, but they went on to win one the big awards. They were also my standouts from the entire event, and I’m unabashed in saying I knew they would be walking home with big recognition. Carla Yeung won the Doosh Collections Award and the Best Use of Yarn award with a collection of dresses simple in design with clever, colourful detail. To win this award the designers garments had to link together, which these 3 dresses did on every level. Beautifully constructed and simply elegant. Exactly what I wanted to see. Then came Laura Marshall’s MacDonald Pearce Perniskie Menswear Award winning design, that went on to take out the big prize - the Ensign Award of Excellence. WOW, true menswear elegance at it’s best. What made this a stand out for me was fluidity of the Singlet fabric, contrasted by the heaviness of the jumper. Again the whole outfit was so simple, it was only a Singlet top, pants and a cardigan. Laura’s menswear garments got better when you were up close too. She had been inspired by jellyfish and growing bacteria, which led to the thin chains and dream catchers sewn onto the silk Singlet. It was a work of art. The pure wool cardigan was hand painted silver to create the heavy textured look that contrasted perfectly with the weight of the silk. The trousers are a cotton metal blend. One of best menswear outfits I’ve seen in a while. What did Laura think of her win? “It’s amazing, it’s so exciting…unreal but fantastic!” Laura is the assistant designer for the new label Company of Strangers, and her plans are to keep working in the NZ industry designing menswear, as NZ needs more. I say she is one to watch.
My first trip to Gore was filled with unexpected splendour from the moment Rose picked us all up from the airport. We were wined and dined, guided through the Eastern Southern Art Gallery and the Hokonui Moonshine Museum, where more than whiskey was found. Old lace gowns and 1920’s flapper dresses were on display as well. History poured out the place. After an entertaining address by Francis Hooper at the Sunday brunch it was off for our final historical excursion, the Croydon Aircraft Company, a restoration facility for wood and fabric type 1920’s and 30’s planes. I was fascinated by their beauty and construction. I was also excited to learn we would be flying in a Tiger moth. The weekend had come to a romantic end. I pulled on my leather flying hat and channelled Amelia Earhart as we flew down the runway, taking off into the clear blue sky. I had seen more simplicity and elegance than I had expected this weekend. I’m already looking forward to heading back next year.
