Saturday, January 23, 2010

The talented Kathryn Leah Payne

When Kathryn Leah Payne, Christchurch fashion designer emailed me a few months ago with pictures of her debut collection, I simply couldn't contain my excitement. Her 1980's inspired Jackal and Hide winter 2010 range is unique, with a twist of sexy sophistication and LOTS of leather.  But it is her meticulous attention to detail and exceptional tailoring that caught my eye.  Needless to say I jumped at the chance to view her range last week and learn more about this talented designer.

After graduating Christchurch Polytechnic in 2000, award winning Payne decided to try her hand at leather jewellery and accessories design.  You may remember seeing her designs in Workshop and other boutiques around NZ.  But, she became interested in wider industry opportunities and went on to cut her clothing design teeth in London.  Working with reputable designers, Caroline Charles, whose celebrity client base included Princess Diana, Ringo Star and Mick Jagger, and British fashion house, Bolongaro Trevor, was invaluable for Payne.  Caroline Charles shared Payne's love of vintage, beautiful tailoring and detail, while Bolongaro Trevor taught her a lot about the business. Now she's equipped with the necessary skills and experience to grow her eponymous label, she is ready is to take on the NZ Fashion world once again.

So, what can you expect from this 17 piece collection? A dress, corsets, pants, jackets, shrugs, leggings and sleeves with most garments featuring something a little different.  Her chosen fabrics are a lambskin leather, viscose, merino jersey, wool crepe, denim, possum fur and vintage silks. The colour palette is dark "I quite like dark, vintage looking fabrics and fixings that have a tarnished look" and there is nothing to "flashy", which adds to the sophisticated look.

It's definitely a standout collection for me, especially knowing Payne "hand paints and hand makes" a lot of her work, and she "likes to play with 3 dimensional shapes that are different and unique" A very time consuming process that makes each piece in her collection unique and limited.

My favorites include Swan Skirt, Owl Corset, Jackal Pants and Fantail Jacket - the first 5 images shown below.

Checkout the 3 dimensional detail too - stunning!

It's fabulous to have this clever and very creative designer back in NZ!

Friday, November 6, 2009

The Samantha vest by Sophie Burrows

There have been some amazing things happen in my career to date but when Sophie Burrow's, a young Massey University fashion designer, who I admire for so many reason told me she had named a piece in her first collection (she's still in design school by the way) after me, I was blown away.

It's called the 'Samantha vest' and it's beautiful, I love it! Giving my time, knowledge, love, well everything, charges me with energy, sometimes I've given to wrong people, this time I know I got it right. When Sophie hand delivered my very own 'Samantha' vest she told me how much she appreciated my help and this was her way of giving back to me. What an amazing lady.

Sophie's collection "is inspired by the opposing themes of military uniforms of the 18th century and the femininity of the romantic movement, rocked up with images of the 80’s. Floaty floral prints vie with ideas of tight lace and leather to make an edgy contrast. The collection features mini dresses, draped waistcoats, exposed zips, brass buttons, and dropped v-necks". It's super cute and I like her attention to detail.

Below are some of my other favourite pieces: check out her facebook fan page here

Monday, October 19, 2009

Day 3 - Stolen Girlfriends Club

Stolen Girlfriends

For me this was easily one of the best shows of the week. Stolen Girlfriends Club collection is clever and original. How to make the Pocahontas look cool!

There was so much to fall in love with. Some of my hits: the heavy cable knits, cropped vests layered over fitted dresses that finished at the knee, peachy pink silk shirt and mini dress with ruffle detail on the back in the shape of a triangle and interesting cuff detail. The colour palette was gorgeous and knits are cute.

Dare to be different in SGC next winter!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Day 4 ANZFW - Stitch Ministry

Stitch Ministry was another hit show at fashion week for me. The use of fur and bejewelled detail created a decedent looking collection that oozed WOW factor.

Hits for me were the tie dyed leggings (who would have thought leggings would have paased the test of time), bodysuits, silk dresses with subtle prints, slashed top, all the detailing including on the back of the garments and the jackets.

Wear Stitch Ministry next winter and feel like a modern 1940's women mixed with 80's glam rock!

Day 3 ANZFW - trends, colours and standouts

Group shows!
Harem pants
Detailing - back of garments, off centred detail
Piped pants and leggings
Double breasted jackets
Tie dye
Warm rusty colours
Green - pale and emerald
80's brights - hot pink and orange

The passion at the Miromoda show. I felt really emotional at the end of it.
Starfish making history by becoming the first ever fully sustainable fashion house to show at Fashion Week.
Samara Vercoe hits: the flowing teal silk dress, cropped jacket with butterfly pleating on the back and tie dyed body suits.
Rerehau and Tutina hits: Beautifully constructed traditional Maori jackets with leather belts.
Junette Ward and Liz Adams hits: Piped linen trousers and subtle harem styled trousers.
Keri Wanoa hits: Navy silk dress with net like sleeves, silk pantsuit, feathered mini skirt, trousers with front pleating and off centre button detail.
Shane Hansen and Bianca Walford-Collier hits: Statement T's and jeans
Kiri Nathan hits: Beaded materials and fringing used to detail her gowns in weave like effect.
Wiremu Barriball hits: Fab music, funky sports wear and shoes. Look out for the orange and yellow basketball boot. The colours in Barriballs collection had real impact and design. Tight body skin showing off the muscles of the men had the crowd flustered.
Group Show
Barbara Lee hits: Her jackets - The animal print jacket that opened the show, lady like crop jacket with collar detail and the long Orange jacket. Lee had fabulous shoulder detailing and back pleating on garments. Look out for the hot pink and the long sequin dresses. This collection was sex kitten and elegant.
Starfish hits: This show was eagerly anticipated for me. Being a big advocate of sustainable and organic clothing, I couldn't wait to see how Starfish would measure up to others at fashion week. I wasn't disappointed. It was colourful and on trend with detail on shoulders and double breasted jackets. Look out for the full length ruffle dress, relaxed boyfriend pants and dress with blue/white print.
United Constructions hits: Piped jodhpar pants and good basics.
Mild Red: Great vests of all lengthens, which could be a layering essential, Bright merinos, fantastic detailing; pockets, ties, straps and buckles. Beautiful tailoring and construction of dresses. Look out for the military jacket with back pleating and shoulder tassels.
GHD New Generation group show
ISBIM hits: Silver bedazzling blazer, faux fur crop jacket and textured fabric leggings.
Emma Ford hits: Ford wanted to show something different to her well known swimwear during NZ fashion week, so decided to showcase body suits and floaty shirt dresses. I loved the quirky prints. Look out for the velvet body suit with chiffon cut outs.
Trix and Dandy hits: The fabulous spectacular that is Michael Pattison. This is wearable electric streetwear! Flirty fabrics and prints on shirts and dresses. The collection is super colourful and playful.
Chapel hits: wearable basics
Serena Fagence hits: 80's glam punk, Fagence knows how to design body suits and jackets with dramatic style. Look out for the triangle shaped detailing on jackets and full body suits in shiny materials.
Whiri hits: Mesh sleeves that had a weave like effect.
House of Ezis hits: The black bat wing dress, it was dramatic!
Tara Cuncliffe hits: Origami detailing was extraordinary. Her collection was filled with vibrant colour and exceptional tailoring; like the pleating on the jodhpurs, which gave an insect like effect and back pleating on dresses, which almost resembled a spine.
Watching all those group show was intense. I cant wait to see the look books!

Serena Fagence

Trix and Dandy


Emma Ford

Group show - Barbara Lee, Starfish, Under Constructions, Mild Red

Mild Red

United Constructions


Barbara Lee

Miromoda show

Rerehau and Tutina

Wiremu Barriball

Kiri Nathan

Keri Wanoa

Junette Ward and Liz Adams

Samara Verco