Friday, October 9, 2009

Day 1 ANZFW - trends, colours, standouts

TRENDS
Garments
Heavy knits
Detail - pleating; collars; sides of garments; shoulders; sleeves
Blazers
Body Harnesses
Bodysuits
Shorts
Capes
Fur
Colours
Burnt Orange
Olive Green
Brown
Purple
Navy
Peach
Nude
Cream

Above: Cybele

Standouts

I love colour and was well pleased to see that through the expected sea of expectant black there was some vibrant, playful, soft and feminine colours shining through. These colours will be magical against grey skies and dominate black outfits us kiwis seem to love wearing in Winter.


Cybele's show kicked off with fantastic sounds I have to say, Licantropia Avanzada (Larsson remix) starting my day with bang. Her collection was exciting, clever and filled with detail. Never afraid to explore colour and pattern, beautiful, interesting pieces flowed down the runway. A couple of my favourite pieces were the burnt orange mini (above) the grey silk shift dress with calla lily print and the pale peach silk dress.



Cybele tulip print shift dress
Cybele peach dress
Sable and Minx's standout pieces were also vibrant in colour like her green maxi dress, very goddess like and purple silk cape. The collection was pretty, feminine and very wearable as the 2 shift dresses show below.











Sable and Minx
Sable and Minx
Twenty Seven Names opened their show by sending all the models en masse down the runway, which had strong impact. This collection was hard edged in the beginning, finishing with some floaty pretty silk pieces. I enjoyed the contradiction as it mixed well with the way they began the show. The start being the end. My picks were fine silk dresses, waist coats with exposed pockets, pleated front dresses, bodysuits and peachy coloured cape.

















Twenty seven names cape



Twenty Seven Names
Twenty Seven Names
Juliette Hogan continued on with her feminine look from her summer 09 collection in an aptly named show 'So pretty it hurts' and it was. There was Shoulder detailing, pleating, ruffles and feminine shapes in dupion silks, tweed, wool and fine silks creating a decedent, polished look. My fav's were the dove grey cape, wool blazer and purple prints.

















Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan
Juliette Hogan
Basquesse leather puzzle like cape
It was clear from the beginning that Basquesse had been influenced by Africa, her collection was filled with animal prints and feathers (ostrich I believe). Some models were decorated in animal print makeup. Her stunning jigsaw puzzle looking leather detailing, short leather cape and statement black dress were standouts for me.















Basquesse
Basquesse
Annah Stretton celebrated Freda Stark in her 1940's inspired show. Lots of vintage underwear came down the runway followed by feminine layering, detailing and good tailoring. You'd be excused for thinking it was a lingerie show in the beginning, but as the show developed Stretton's true style came through. If you like Annah Stretton collections you will not be disappointed. For me, I'm in love with tutu's so these stood out. Along with the frilly detailing on the sides on her knickers.















Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton
Alexandra Owen knows how to bring intelligence and humour into a collection. Her equestrian
inspired collection was one of my favourites of the day. Clever styling saw the models legs wrapped like a horses ready for show jumping and horse halters featured around the models necks. I loved the leather scarf, exceptional tailoring and detail that signifies Alexandra Owen. You can see why Alexandra Owen has been invited to NYFW 2010. Stunning!





Alexandra Owen
Alexandra Owen
Zambesi's art of putting on a great show never fails. WOW! For most, a show like this would have overwhelmed the clothing. Not Zambesi. The first off site show of the week took us to Skycity, where we sat in front of a big screen and open stage. One by one the models walked out from the back of the stage, tiny figures wearing clothing you couldn't quite see; they were to far away. Then as they came back through the wings from the opposite side of the stage, a
TV camera projected them up onto the large screen and the models looked like they were walking straight at you. I have to say I thought this was one of Zambesi's best collections to date. Standouts for me were the soft, feminine, pretty coloured silks juxtaposed with tailored, dark pieces. The knits were beautiful and jackets to die for.
Zambesi

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